Floating Dock Anchors Away: A Step-by-Step Guide

Secure Your Investment: Why Proper Dock Anchoring Matters
How to anchor a floating dock properly is essential for maintaining stability, safety, and longevity of your waterfront investment. Here's a quick answer to get you started:
Step | Action |
---|---|
1. Assess | Evaluate your water conditions (depth, bottom type, wave action) |
2. Choose anchors | Select concrete blocks (600+ lbs for corners) or appropriate alternatives |
3. Prepare hardware | Gather galvanized chains, shackles, and eyebolts |
4. Layout | Position anchors in crisscross pattern, spaced every 24-30 feet |
5. Install | Lower anchors using planks, attach chains with 1-2 feet of slack |
6. Test & adjust | Check tension and adjust seasonally |
We've all been there—watching helplessly as an improperly anchored dock drifts away during a summer storm. Floating docks have become increasingly popular due to their versatility, adaptability to changing water levels, and surprisingly, their ability to protect boats during severe weather. In fact, many coastal areas prefer floating docks because they help prevent boat damage during hurricanes compared to stationary docks.
Proper anchoring is the most critical aspect of floating dock installation. A dock that's too loosely anchored becomes a hazard; one that's improperly secured can damage itself, your boat, or neighboring property. Expert recommendations suggest a minimum of 600 pounds of anchor weight at the furthest corners of your floating dock, with anchoring points every 24 to 30 feet for optimal stability.
The right anchoring system depends on your specific environment. Lakes with minimal fluctuation might benefit from stiff arm anchors, while tidal areas require cable systems with sufficient slack. Whatever your situation, this guide will walk you through the essential steps to ensure your floating dock stays exactly where you want it—even when mother nature has other ideas.
Easy how to anchor a floating dock glossary:
Floating Dock Fundamentals & Why Anchoring Matters
Ever watched a poorly anchored dock bob around like a cork in a bathtub? Before we dive into the nuts and bolts of how to anchor a floating dock, let's talk about why these water-loving platforms need proper anchoring in the first place.
Think of your floating dock as a dance partner with the water—it needs to move with the waves while staying firmly in place. Here on Long Island, where our waterways can go from glass-calm to choppy in minutes, proper anchoring isn't just about convenience—it's about safety and protecting your investment.
"We've seen it all across Long Island's waterways," one of our senior dock specialists at Pearce Marine Construction often says. "From Nassau to Suffolk County, the difference between a dock that survives storm season and one that becomes driftwood is almost always in the anchoring."
Understanding a bit of science helps here. Remember Archimedes' Principle from school? It explains why a 150-pound concrete anchor only provides about 75 pounds of anchoring force underwater. This is why we recommend substantial anchor weights: at least 600 pounds at the furthest corners of your floating dock, with docks closer to shore needing at least 450 pounds per side.
Another pro tip: cross your anchor chains in an X configuration. This simple technique prevents swaying and significantly reduces the chances of fouling your boat's drive train—a costly mistake that proper anchoring easily prevents.
What Is a Floating Dock?
A floating dock does exactly what its name suggests—it floats on the water rather than being fixed to the bottom with pilings. These buoyant platforms rise and fall with changing water levels, making them perfect for areas with tidal changes or seasonal water fluctuations.
You'll find several types of floating docks in our Long Island waters:
Modular plastic docks made from high-density polyethylene offer durability with minimal maintenance. Wood-frame docks provide that classic boardwalk feel while floating on buoyant materials. Some homeowners opt for foam-billet docks with closed-cell foam encased in protective coverings, while the DIY crowd might use barrel or drum docks with sealed containers for flotation.
What makes these docks special is their ability to naturally adjust to water level changes. When a nor'easter pushes in extra water or summer drought lowers lake levels, your floating dock moves right along with it—no adjustments needed.
Risks of Poor Anchoring
Let me share a cautionary tale from Huntington Harbor. A homeowner decided to save a few bucks on anchoring, only to watch their dock break free during a nor'easter. That wayward dock damaged three neighboring boats before washing up across the harbor. The insurance claims and regulatory fines ended up costing far more than proper anchoring would have.
Poor anchoring creates several serious risks:
When your dock drifts away, it becomes both a navigation hazard and vulnerable to damage. Your boat can suffer significant damage from an improperly secured dock during storms. On the flip side, FEMA has documented that properly anchored floating docks can actually protect boats during hurricanes better than fixed docks.
You might face liability issues if your free-floating dock damages someone else's property. "We've seen insurance claims denied because owners didn't follow proper anchoring guidelines," our team at Pearce Marine Construction often warns clients.
Additionally, a constantly moving dock can accelerate shoreline erosion, particularly where it connects to land. And don't forget about regulatory fines—many Long Island municipalities have strict codes about dock security, with violations resulting in hefty penalties.
The bottom line? Investing time and resources in proper anchoring isn't just smart—it's essential for the safety, longevity, and legal compliance of your waterfront investment.
How to Anchor a Floating Dock: Step-by-Step Guide
Now that we understand why proper anchoring is crucial, let's break down the process of how to anchor a floating dock into manageable steps.
The heart of dock anchoring isn't complicated, but it does require attention to detail. Think of it as securing your floating investment to the lake, river, or seabed using a thoughtful combination of anchors, chains, and connection hardware. Most waterfront homeowners on Long Island choose between four main methods:
Cable anchoring remains the most popular choice, using chains or cables connected to concrete blocks or mushroom anchors. It's cost-effective and works well in most situations. Stiff arm anchoring uses rigid arms connecting your dock to shore or pilings, providing excellent stability in smaller bodies of water. If you prefer a cleaner look, pile anchoring uses vertical poles driven into the bottom that your dock slides up and down on as water levels change. For those wanting maximum holding power, helix anchoring involves screw-like anchors that twist into the bottom – though these typically require professional installation.
"We've installed hundreds of docks across Long Island's diverse waterways," shares our lead installer at Pearce Marine Construction. "While each property is unique, we find that cable anchoring with concrete blocks gives the best balance of reliability and value for most homeowners."
Step 1 – Site Assessment & Permits
Before you purchase a single piece of hardware, take time to understand your specific waterfront conditions:
Your water depth at the dock's furthest point from shore determines everything from chain length to anchor selection. The bottom type dictates which anchors will work best – mushroom anchors excel in soft, muddy bottoms where they can "set" themselves, while sandy bottoms call for concrete blocks or helix anchors, and rocky bottoms need heavy concrete blocks or specialized rock anchors.
Don't overlook fetch distance – the uninterrupted distance wind can travel across water before reaching your dock. Longer fetch means bigger waves and stronger anchoring requirements. Similarly, strong currents need heavier anchoring and possibly additional anchor points.
For those in tidal areas like the North Shore, measure the difference between high and low tide to ensure your chains have adequate slack. One Oyster Bay homeowner learned this lesson the hard way when his tightly secured chains pulled his dock underwater during an unusually high tide!
Perhaps most importantly, check local regulations. Both Nassau and Suffolk Counties typically require permits for dock installation. "We always recommend applying for permits during the fall or winter months," advises our permitting specialist. "Processing times are typically shorter, and you'll be ready to install when the weather improves."
Step 2 – Tools & Materials: how to anchor a floating dock safely
With your site assessment complete, gather your dock anchoring toolkit:
For anchors, concrete blocks (minimum 150 lbs each) remain the gold standard, with multiple blocks needed for corners. Mushroom anchors (150-200 lbs) work well for smaller docks in soft bottoms. In extreme conditions, granite blocks (2,500 lbs each) provide maximum holding power, while helix anchors require professional installation but offer excellent stability.
Your hardware collection should include galvanized chain (minimum 1/4" for small docks, 3/8" recommended for larger docks or rougher waters), quick links and shackles matching the chain size, eyebolts for attachment points, chain retainers or guides, and anchor chain tension cords for areas with significant water level changes.
Essential tools include a boat capable of handling anchor weight, wooden planks for lowering anchors safely, wrenches, bolt cutters for chain, and safety equipment like gloves and life jackets.
For a typical 12' x 24' floating dock in moderate conditions around Long Island, you might need four 600 lb anchor assemblies for corners, two 450 lb anchor assemblies for mid-points, 200+ feet of 3/8" galvanized chain, 12-18 shackles and quick links, and 6-8 eyebolts or chain retainers.
All metal components should be galvanized or stainless steel to prevent corrosion. "For our saltwater installations in areas like South Hampton or Cold Spring Harbor," notes our materials specialist, "we strongly recommend marine-grade stainless steel hardware. It costs more upfront but saves significant money in the long run."
Step 3 – Deploying Your Anchors
With materials in hand, it's time to deploy your anchors – ideally on a calm day with good visibility.
Begin by marking anchor positions using the crisscross layout pattern. You'll need anchors at each corner of the dock and additional anchors every 24-30 feet along the sides for larger docks. Next, prepare the anchors by attaching chains before deployment. For concrete blocks, run the chain through the rebar loops or dedicated attachment points.
Carefully load and transport anchors onto your boat. This may require multiple trips depending on your boat's capacity – don't overload! When you reach each marked location, position and lower the anchor using wooden planks to slide it into the water. The planks protect your boat and make the process much safer.
For mushroom anchors, they need to be "drag-set" by pulling horizontally once they're on the bottom. This causes the mushroom to dig in and achieve maximum holding power.
A dock owner in Babylon shared this practical tip: "We tied multiple anchors together with rope before dropping them. This made it much easier to position them accurately, especially in deeper water."
For extremely deep water or complex installations, professional help is recommended. At Pearce Marine Construction, we sometimes use scuba divers to ensure perfect anchor placement in challenging conditions – particularly in the deeper waters around Montauk and Shelter Island.
Step 4 – Connecting Chains & Cables: how to anchor a floating dock for storms
The final step brings everything together – literally:
Attach chains to the dock by running them from the anchors to the appropriate attachment points. For the crisscross pattern, the right-side anchors connect to the left corners of the dock, and vice versa. This configuration dramatically improves stability by counteracting wave action from multiple directions.
Install hardware using shackles or quick links to secure chains to eyebolts or chain retainers on the dock. Then adjust chain length, allowing 1-2 feet of slack in the chains to accommodate water level changes. In tidal areas, you'll need more slack based on your tidal range.
Be meticulous when you secure connections – ensure all shackles are properly tightened and secured with seizing wire if necessary. Finally, test the system by applying pressure in different directions. The dock should have minimal movement but still be able to rise and fall with water levels.
In storm-prone areas like the South Shore of Long Island, additional preparations may be necessary. "For our clients in areas like Merrick and Wantagh," explains one of our dock specialists, "we recommend installing storm preparation kits that allow for quick addition of extra anchoring during severe weather forecasts."
For areas with significant water level fluctuations, consider installing turnbuckles or Anchor Chain Tension Cords. These clever devices maintain proper tension regardless of water level changes, providing consistent stability without requiring constant adjustments.
"The best anchoring systems are the ones you can install and then almost forget about," says our senior dock builder. "Almost – because regular inspections are still essential, but a properly installed system should give you years of worry-free enjoyment of your waterfront."
Choosing, Sizing & Laying Out Dock Anchors
Selecting the right anchors for your floating dock isn't just about buying the heaviest option available—it's about finding the perfect match for your specific waterway conditions. After helping countless waterfront homeowners across Long Island, we've learned that thoughtful anchor selection makes all the difference between a dock that lasts decades and one that drifts away during the first strong storm.
Anchor Types Comparison
Anchor Type | Pros | Cons | Best For |
---|---|---|---|
Concrete Blocks | Affordable, DIY-friendly, reliable | Heavy to transport, limited holding in soft bottoms | Most applications, especially firm bottoms |
Mushroom Anchors | Excellent in mud, compact | Limited holding in sand/rock, needs proper setting | Soft, muddy bottoms |
Granite Blocks | Extreme holding power, longevity | Very heavy, difficult to source and place | Exposed locations, large docks |
Helix Anchors | Superior holding power, minimal disturbance | Requires professional installation, expensive | Professional installations, environmentally sensitive areas |
Deadweight Anchors | Simple, consistent | Requires significant weight | Smaller docks, sheltered locations |
Pile & Sleeve | Allows vertical movement only | Installation complexity, limited to certain depths | Areas with extreme water level changes |
"Most of our clients across Nassau and Suffolk Counties do best with concrete blocks and galvanized chains arranged in a crisscross pattern," explains our senior dock specialist at Pearce Marine Construction. "It's reliable, cost-effective, and handles the varied conditions we see in Long Island's waterways."
I remember one client in Cold Spring Harbor who insisted on using lighter anchors to save on initial costs. After losing half his dock during a moderate nor'easter, he called us back to install proper concrete blocks—the right tool for the job from the beginning would have saved him thousands.
Calculating Anchor Weight
Figuring out the right anchor weight doesn't have to be complicated, but it does require some thoughtful math. Here's how we approach it for our Long Island customers:
Start with the dock size. A good rule of thumb is that your total anchor weight should be at least twice the weight of your dock itself. This accounts for wind, waves, and other forces that will try to move your dock.
Next, consider your exposure factor. If your dock sits in a protected cove in Oyster Bay, you might only need the standard weight (1x multiplier). But if you're facing the open waters of the Great South Bay, you'll want to multiply your anchor weight by 2-3x for adequate protection.
Concrete loses about half its weight underwater. This surprises many DIYers! That 150-pound concrete block you struggled to move? It only provides about 75 pounds of anchoring force once submerged, thanks to Archimedes' Principle.
For most installations, we recommend at least 600 pounds of actual anchoring weight at each corner (which means 1,200-pound concrete blocks before submersion) and 450 pounds for side anchors in moderate conditions.
"We installed a dock for a family in Huntington Harbor last spring," shares our installation team leader. "Their 12' x 24' floating dock needed four corner anchors at 600 pounds each and two side anchors at 450 pounds each—that's 3,300 pounds of actual holding force. During Hurricane season, their dock stayed perfectly in place while their neighbor's underanchored dock broke free."
Anchor Layout Options
The way you arrange your anchors matters just as much as their weight. We've seen perfectly good anchors fail simply because they were positioned incorrectly.
The X-Pattern (Crisscross) layout is our most recommended configuration. By crossing chains from opposite corners, you create a system that resists movement in all directions. This pattern has saved countless docks during severe weather events across Long Island's shorelines.
The Straight Run approach—where anchors line up directly with the dock—is simpler but provides significantly less lateral stability. We only recommend this in extremely sheltered locations.
For docks near shore with minimal water level changes, a Stiff-Arm Grid using rigid arms instead of chains can work beautifully.
In areas with dramatic water level fluctuations, like certain parts of the North Shore, a Pile Array system lets the dock slide up and down on vertical piles while preventing horizontal movement.
For optimal stability, space your anchors every 24-30 feet along your dock's length. During a particularly nasty storm season in 2019, we observed something telling: straight-run anchored docks suffered significant damage while neighboring docks with crisscross anchoring remained secure through identical conditions.
"I've been installing docks for over 20 years," says our dock construction supervisor, "and I've never regretted installing extra anchoring, but I've certainly regretted not adding enough when a storm hits."
Want to learn more about specific anchor options? Check out our detailed guide on Dock Anchors for a Floating Dock or explore Floating Dock Shore Anchor solutions for your specific waterfront situation.
Installation, Shore Tie-Ins & Adjustment Tips
Connecting your floating dock to the shore isn't just about access—it's a crucial part of your overall anchoring system. Let's walk through how to create secure shore connections and keep your dock properly adjusted as conditions change throughout the seasons.
Shoreline Connection Methods
The way you connect to shore serves double duty: providing safe access while helping anchor your dock in place. Here in Long Island waters, we've found these methods work best:
Hinged Gangway/Ramp is the most common approach we install at Pearce Marine Construction. It's exactly what it sounds like—a walkway that's firmly hinged at the shoreline but simply rests on your floating dock. This clever design allows your dock to rise and fall with water levels while maintaining steady access.
To install one properly, you'll need a solid foundation at the shore—either a concrete pad or a treated wood abutment. Heavy-duty hinges attach your gangway to this foundation, while the dock end remains unattached, simply resting on the dock surface. This freedom of movement is essential!
Stiff Arms provide excellent stability for docks close to shore. These rigid poles connect to pivot points at both the shore and dock, allowing vertical movement while restricting horizontal drift. They're particularly popular in sheltered coves throughout Nassau County where water level changes are moderate.
"We installed stiff arms on our dock in Port Washington last year," shares one of our clients. "Even during that nasty October storm, our dock stayed perfectly aligned with our property line."
Piling Hoops work wonderfully in areas with significant tidal fluctuation. Metal rings attached to your dock slide up and down on pilings driven near shore. We've found this to be an exceptionally reliable solution for the dramatic tidal ranges in places like Great South Bay.
Deadweight Winch System offers maximum flexibility for extreme water level variations. This system uses a concrete "deadman" anchor embedded on shore, connected via cable to a winch mounted on your dock. While more complex, this setup allows you to manually adjust your dock's position as needed.
Adjusting for Water-Level Fluctuations
Water rarely stays at one level—whether you're dealing with tides, seasonal changes, or storm surges. Your anchoring system needs to accommodate these fluctuations while maintaining proper tension.
Turnbuckles are worth their weight in gold for seasonal adjustments. These simple devices install between your chains and dock attachment points, allowing you to fine-tune tension without removing any hardware. Most of our Long Island clients check and adjust their turnbuckles twice yearly—typically in spring and fall.
Tension Cords offer a more automated solution. These elastic components maintain consistent tension despite changing water levels, stretching and contracting automatically as your dock rises and falls. They're particularly valuable in tidal areas like Oyster Bay and Cold Spring Harbor, where daily water level changes are significant.
Extra Chain Scope is the simplest approach—simply providing additional chain length to accommodate water level changes. For most installations, we recommend at least 1-2 feet of slack, but tidal areas require careful calculation based on the specific tidal range at your location.
"When we first installed our dock in Brightwaters, we didn't account for the seasonal water level drop," a client recently told us. "By August, our chains were way too tight! Adding turnbuckles solved the problem completely—now we just make a small adjustment each season."
For Long Island waterways, it's smart to mark your calendar for regular inspections and adjustments. Spring typically brings higher water levels after winter thaws and rains, while late summer often sees lower levels. Hurricane season (June through November) may require additional preparations or adjustments to keep your dock secure during severe weather.
Proper shore tie-ins work in tandem with your water-side anchoring system. Together, they create a complete solution that keeps your dock stable, accessible, and secure through changing conditions. For more detailed guidance on shore connections, check out our article on How to Anchor a Floating Dock to Shore.
Maintenance, Troubleshooting, FAQs & Next Steps
Your floating dock anchoring system isn't a "set it and forget it" installation—it needs some TLC to keep your waterfront investment secure for years to come. Let me walk you through what you need to know about maintaining your dock anchors and solving common problems before they become expensive headaches.
Maintenance Schedule
Just like changing the oil in your car, regular maintenance of your dock anchoring system prevents costly failures. Here's a simple routine that our Long Island clients have found effective:
During boating season, make a quick monthly visual check of all visible hardware. Look for any signs that your dock is moving excessively or listing to one side. While you're at it, make sure your gangway is working smoothly—it shouldn't be binding or making strange noises.
When seasons change, it's time for a more thorough inspection. Examine chains for wear, especially where they connect to other components. This is also the perfect time to adjust tension as needed and verify all hardware is secure. Keep an eye out for the orange-brown bloom of corrosion, particularly in saltwater environments.
"I set calendar reminders for dock checks after winter and mid-summer," shares one of our Northport clients. "Fifteen minutes twice a year has saved me thousands in potential repairs."
Once a year, commit to a complete hardware inspection. Replace any components showing significant wear, check anchor positions if possible, and make sure shore connections remain solid. At Pearce Marine Construction, we often remind clients that "preventative maintenance is always less expensive than emergency repairs." A simple inspection after storms can catch small issues before they become major failures.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Over our years of experience on Long Island's waterways, we've seen the same anchoring mistakes repeated time and again. Here's how to avoid them:
Undersized anchors are by far the most common error. 600-pound minimum for corner anchors—it's not a suggestion, it's a necessity, especially in our local waters where nor'easters can appear with little warning.
Many dock owners also skip the crisscross pattern, opting for straight chains instead. This significantly reduces stability and makes your dock more vulnerable during storms. The extra time it takes to set up a proper cross-chain configuration pays off during the first strong wind.
Another mistake we see frequently is mixing different metal types in your hardware system. Using stainless steel shackles with galvanized chain, for example, can create a reaction that accelerates corrosion. Stick with one metal type throughout your system.
"I thought heavier chains would be better," a Wantagh homeowner told us, "so I used 1/2" chain but didn't leave enough slack. During a spring tide, the chains actually pulled one corner of my dock underwater. Now I follow the professionals' advice about proper slack."
And please, don't ignore permits! Many waterfront homeowners in Nassau and Suffolk Counties skip the permitting process, risking fines and complications with insurance claims later. Your insurance may not cover damage if your dock wasn't properly permitted.
When to Call a Pro
While many floating dock anchoring projects make great DIY weekend projects, some situations definitely call for professional help:
Water deeper than 8-10 feet makes anchoring increasingly difficult without specialized equipment. Similarly, helical anchor installation requires specific tools and expertise that most homeowners simply don't have.
If your dock location has heavy wave exposure, you'll benefit from a professionally engineered anchoring system. The investment pays for itself the first time a storm rolls through.
Any time your dock has suffered structural damage, get a professional assessment before re-anchoring. What looks like minor damage might have compromised critical attachment points.
Some areas, particularly in environmentally sensitive locations like Cold Spring Harbor or South Hampton, have complex permitting requirements that professionals steer every day. At Pearce Marine Construction, we provide free consultations to help you determine whether your project is suitable for DIY or would benefit from professional installation.
FAQs about Floating Dock Anchors
Q: How much anchor weight do I need for my floating dock?
A: At minimum, use 600 lbs of anchor weight at each corner of your floating dock and 450 lbs along the sides. Concrete loses about half its weight underwater, so a 600 lb underwater anchor requires about 1,200 lbs of concrete above water.
Q: How long should my anchor chains be?
A: Make your chains 1.5 to 2 times the maximum water depth. In 8 feet of water, use 12-16 feet of chain. For tidal areas, add additional length based on your local tidal range.
Q: Do I need to remove my anchors in winter?
A: In areas with ice formation, it's often advisable to remove floating docks completely. However, the anchors themselves typically remain in place year-round. For areas with mild winters like much of Long Island, many floating docks can stay put with proper preparation.
Q: How often should I inspect my anchoring system?
A: Conduct thorough inspections in spring and fall, plus after any major storms. Monthly visual checks during boating season will help catch problems early.
Q: Can I use the same anchoring system in saltwater and freshwater?
A: While the basic principles are the same, saltwater installations require more corrosion-resistant materials. In saltwater environments like the bays of South Hampton or Huntington, we recommend marine-grade stainless steel hardware and heavier-duty components due to increased corrosion risk and typically more severe weather conditions.
With proper maintenance and the right anchoring system, your floating dock will provide years of reliable service, protecting both your waterfront investment and the boats moored to it. And remember, if you need professional guidance for your Long Island dock project, Pearce Marine Construction offers comprehensive boat dock services backed by generations of local marine construction expertise.
Conclusion
There's something deeply satisfying about standing on a properly anchored floating dock—that feeling of stability beneath your feet, even as gentle waves lap against the sides. Throughout this guide, we've walked through the essential steps of how to anchor a floating dock effectively, combining technical know-how with practical experience.
Think of your anchoring system as the unsung hero of your waterfront property. When done right, it silently performs its duty day after day, season after season, protecting your investment while you enjoy peaceful mornings with coffee on the dock or sunset gatherings with friends and family.
The difference between a dock that survives for decades and one that becomes driftwood after the first significant storm often comes down to those initial anchoring decisions. By following the 600-pound corner rule, implementing the crisscross chain pattern, and selecting appropriate materials for your specific waterway, you've set yourself up for success.
Long Island's diverse waterways—from the protected harbors of Huntington to the more exposed shores of South Hampton—each present unique challenges. What works perfectly in one location might need adjustments in another. That's why understanding both the science and the art of dock anchoring is so crucial.
Your seasonal maintenance routine is the final piece of the puzzle. Those quick monthly visual checks during boating season and more thorough spring and fall inspections will help catch small issues before they become major problems. A little preventative care goes a remarkably long way in extending the life of your dock system.
At Pearce Marine Construction, we've spent generations perfecting our approach to marine structures throughout Nassau and Suffolk Counties. As a woman-owned business deeply rooted in Long Island's maritime community, we understand that your dock isn't just a structure—it's an extension of your home and a gateway to the water you love.
Whether you're tackling this project yourself with our guidance or you'd prefer our team to handle the entire installation, we're here to ensure your floating dock serves you beautifully for years to come. Our commitment to meticulous craftsmanship means we treat every project, large or small, with the same attention to detail we'd give our own waterfront property.
For more information about our comprehensive boat dock services or to schedule a consultation with our experienced team, visit our boat dock services page or reach out today. Your waterfront dreams deserve the peace of mind that comes from knowing your dock is anchored right—the Pearce Marine Construction way.
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